NAVEGAR É PRECISO
Barillas Marina, El Salvador
Our 5 day trip from Huatulco, Mexico to Barillas, El Salvador was good. It is very difficult to predict the weather and you always second guessing yourself. We want to say a very big THANK YOU to Peter (W6DEI) from San Fransico as he sent us the buoy weather reports each day as we moved along the coastline. We also had ham stations from the Maritime net checking on the weather for us. With this information, the grib files and NOAA weather discussion we were able to make relatively good weather predictions. This was also a comfort for me, as I am more worried about the weather than Dinis. We have a daily radio schedule with Peter since we left Vancouver. Peter and Ron (VE7BGK) are following all BCA (Bluewater Cruising Association) boats from British Columbia.
Dinis became quite a fisherman on this trip, he caught 9 fish altogether, but unfortunately none of them were keepers. The first day he had quite a struggle with the 17 lb Jack Cravalli, but the Skipjack was no problem. Both these fish have very dark meat and not nice for eating. The next day only brought another Skipjack. On Thursday was Dinis best fishing, caught and release 3 Jack Cravalli fishes and 3 Skipjacks. We were hoping for another Mahi-mahi, but no such luck.
We were very impressed with the fast response times and professionalism of Barillas Marina. We sent an email just before leaving Huatulco in Mexico to get information on how to proceed when arrived. We received all the details and also the way point where to wait for the pilot boat. The 10 mile long channel into the lagoon is safe but can be tricky and requires a pilot. We arrived at the pickup point later than we expected 12 midnight on Thursday 27 January and drop anchor. The holding ground is mud which is good, but it was rolly. The pilot boat arrived first daylight on Friday and we made our way into the lagoon following him. It was quite an experience through the channel. The seas was on the beam for quite some time and we had quite a swell which caused it to be very rolly (gunhale to gunhale).
After the pilot boat tide us to the buoy, the marina person, immigration and customs came over. We filled in the required forms and the boat was inspected. This was the easiest, friendliest and most hassle free check in we had experience so far. We were transported to shore and then to the marina office to do the rest of the paper work, paid the entry fees and visited the restaurant/bar for our complimentary drink and also to try the famous pupusa. It was great. Mr Heriberto Pineda is determined that everything runs on time, he is familiar with Vancouver and his staff is very friendly and helpful. Unfortunately the marina is quite islolated, but the marina offers a shuttle bus for shopping in Usulutan.
One interesting point is, that checking into El Salvador, your visitor visa includes Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua if travel by land. By boat you will have to check into each country separately. This is great especially for us that want to do some traveling in Guatemala and Honduras. We are busy planning our strategy for visiting volcanos, ruins, coffee plantation and sightseeing. We will leave the boat in the marina and rent a car. The distances between these countries are very small.
For anyone interested in Barillas Marina below are the contact details
Mr. Heriberto Pineda
Barillas Marina Manager
Office 503 2632 1802, 503 2675 1131
Cellular 503 7871 1738
Email hpineda@barillasmarina.com
On route to Barillas, El Salvador
We cleared customs on Sunday 23 January at around midday and was ready to go. We had a weather window for 2 to 3 days to cross the Golf of Tehuantepec. Although the weather called for light winds we decided that we will keep close to the shoreline around 10 to 20 nm offshore. We had very little wind and only manage to sail for 3 hours on Sunday. Monday was another motoring day with about 2 hours of sailing, we had incredible bad luck with the fishermen during the night. They rig up around 5 km of line with buoys attached about every 300 meters, which is impossible to see at night. These buoys are not marked and some are marked at the beginning and the end with a black flag. During the day these black flags are quite visible but not at night. After the first running into the lines we decided to head further offshore (we were around 24 nm offshore) and still running into these lines. We decided that maybe we should head closer to land and this was great at about 4 nm offshore, but not before 5 times having to stop the boat and try to untangle the lines from the rudder. We were very lucky that no lines got stuck in the propeller. We switched the deck lights on to have a little more light on the water, so that we could spot these buoys and lines. We were watching the speed like a hawk and any drop in speed we immediately put the engine in neutral. We did not like cutting the lines as this is someone's livelihood, but we had to cut 1 line and also 1 fish hook on another line. We were totally exhausted with the lack of sleep, but Tuesday morning was a beautiful day and Dinis caught 2 fish, 1 17 lbs and another about 7 lbs.
We cross the Mexican/Guatemala border around 4 pm Tuesday afternoon 25 January. We had another motoring night, but kept about 4 nm offshore, had no problems with lines in the water and had a peaceful night catching up on sleep. Wednesday morning and afternoon we had another couple of hours of sailing. Most of the trip so far was motoring, but I rather have a safe trip across than having to deal with gale force winds.
Our ETA is Thursday afternoon. To reach the marina, one have to go through sandbars following a pilot boat. Due to daytime limit the pilot boats can only take you before 3 pm otherwise you have to anchor and wait for the next morning. This is most probably what we will have to do.
Oaxaca, Mexico
Oaxaca city is the capital of Oaxaca state. We arrived at 06:30 am on Wednesday morning 19 January after a very exhausting trip. The bus was very comfortable, but the roads had so many curves upon curves and speed bumps that it made sleeping impossible. We booked ourselves into a very nice hotel across the street from the bus station, had a shower, a hour or two sleep, breakfast and then off to explore.
The city architecture is Spanish colonial and very well maintained. The city is big, with lots of people, lots of plazas with flowers, trees and grass. Very beautiful.
The ruins of Monte Alban is one of the archaeological wonders of the world. The most beautiful Mesoamerican site where the Zapotecan culture flourished and remnants of their elaborate gold jewels made using the wax technique have been found. The archaeological zone has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
We have been very lucky to meet Mario Rodrigues (tour guide) on the bus to Monte Alban. Mario agreed to give us a private tour and his knowledge of history and the ruins are great. Without him we would have missed out on a great history lesson. Around 2 pm. we finished the tour, paid for Mario's tour said our good byes.
Back in Oaxaca city we went to the museum and the culture centre. Again the buildings were just breathtaking, with lots to see. By this time we were limping from all the walking.
On our way back to the Hotel we walked pass a seafood restaurant, Marco Polo. This was the best seafood we had so far. They cook the seafood in an outside wood oven, similar to a pizza oven. We arrived back at the Hotel just before sunset.
Thursday morning 20 January, after breakfast we went on another tour with a minivan to visit Tule (Millenial tree, widest tree in the world), Teotitlan (Town of woolen tapestries), Mezcal Factory (Oaxacan liquor distillery) and Mitla (City of the dead, fine arhitecture and incredible stone designs on its walls).
We enjoyed this trip tremendously and walked away with a small tapestry for the boat and a bottle of Orange Mezcal for special occasions.
We arrived back in Oaxaca city around 4 pm and decided that the Marco Polo restaurant is calling us back. After a early supper we walked around the city sightseeing and also killing time for our overnight trip back to Huatulco.
This whole trip including the 8 hours bus trips, the food, tours and hotel cost us about 280 US $, well worth it.
Huatulco, Mexico
Huatulco town is the most beautiful coastal town that we visited, with buildings and roads very well maintained, and lots of gardens and grass. Prices for taxis anywhere in town is 20 pesos. The grocery store is nearby and trouble free. Restaurants are also reasonably priced. We walked around town away from the touristy spots and all very clean, no garbage and no smell.
We had great service from the Marina Chahue, especially Eduardo Acevedo Salinas. He came in on Sunday morning to help us re-arrange for customs to clear us out. Customs were busy and did not show up at the appointed time Saturday. Everything was arrange and all went smoothly.
Arrived in Huatulco, Southern Mexico
We arrived in Huatulco this afternoon. We are currently moored at Marina Chahue, the first time we are back in a marina since Ensenada. We gave the boat a good wash, actually we washed the boat twice. Lots of salt and sand had accumulated.
We are planning a trip to Oaxaca to see the Monte Alban Ruins. We are taking the overnight bus tomorrow and will return on Thursday 20 January.
We will do another small provisioning on Friday and then clear customs and immigration in Mexico from here. We will then make our way to El Salvador (about 5 days sailing) depending when we get the weather window for the Gulf of Tehuantepec.
Escondido Bay, Southern Mexico
This little bay is by far the most beautiful bay we saw. We anchored for 2 days waiting for the winds to drop a little. The anchorage is expose to the south and the west, which cause it to be a bit rolly. It is protected from the north and the east where most of the bad weather comes from. During the nights the winds shift offshore so that the rolling is more of a up and down motion and not the side to side rolling.
The town is very clean, the buildings are maintained and no garbage. It is mostly a fishing town with a surfer feeling to it. There are lots of little shops, restaurants and a big super market.
We walked past a weaving shop where they make the most beautiful fabric. The gentleman operating one of the machines allowed us to video tape while he was working. This was very interesting. Make you appreciate the effort they put into their fabric, especially when they use different colour threats and patterns like on the video (will post the video at the next port). The weaving machines are made of wood.
During our sailing we saw lots of flying fish. They dart out of the water and skim the surface of the water for a considerable distance. I presume they are being chase by other fish.
We added 1 more stop (Puerto Angel) to our route to Huatulco, it was recommended by our friends Sylvie and David on S/V Puddytat. A small little bay and just as picturesque as Escondido Bay. It is just 24 nm east of Huatulco.
Bahia Dulce, Mexico
It is hot, hot !! We have all the fans going and only moderate relieve. We have an extra fan that Dinis wants to put in our V-berth. That will definitely be great. Our sail from Acapulco was great, beam reach half of the way before the wind dropped. Bahia Dulce is a bay just north of Acamama Point. This bay reminded us of Isabela Island, lots of birds and fish. There is a small fishing village onshore. We dropped anchor around 5 pm local time on Wednesday 12 January. The anchorage was protected from the north, west and east winds, but we still had a small swell from the ocean with us, which caused a rolly night's sleep. We left on Thursday morning for our overnight trip to Escondido and was amaze, the bay had hundreds of turtles. What beautiful animals, you notice them by the sun that shines off their shell. We manage to video record a turtle which gave a seagull a ride on his shell. The bird flew away when we came closer.
Golf of Tehuantepec
Acapulco was the least favorite city so far. We went ashore once to do provisioning and the rest of the time we spend getting the boat ready for the Golf of Tehuantepec.
The Golf of Tehuantepec can be very treacherous and you have to get a good weather window for crossing, especially this time of the year. If there is a high pressure system in the Gulf of Mexico then this causes the wind to funnel through a 30 mile wide gap and spreading out as it moves offshore on the pacific side. Another way is to hug the shoreline where the seas will be calmer.
Currently there is a gale blowing in the Tehuantepec (35 to 45 knots) and not clearing before Sunday/Monday. Our strategy is to make small trips until we get to Huatulco. We will anchor at Bahia Dulce (65 nm from Acapulco) then do a overnight trip to Escondido (117 nm from Bahia Dulce and then do the last day sail to Huatulco (57 nm from Escondido). We will stay there until the weather clear up.
Arrived in Acapulco, Mexico
We had a good rest and the weather forecast predicted good winds only for one day and then a couple of days with no wind. So we left around 11:00 am on a beam reach with 10 to 14 knots of wind. The seas were calm and we had an enjoyable sail. As predicted the wind dropped and we motored the rest of the way (20 hours). It was hot and all the fans were going to keep the boat breezy.
We arrived in Acapulco on Friday 7 January 2011 in the afternoon. This is a very busy place with lots and lots of high-rise hotels and tourists.
We did another top up of diesel and enquired about where we can leave the dinghy when going ashore. We were informed that we can leave the dinghy at one of the marinas for $35.00 US per day. This is just outrageously expensive.
Dinis did a cleanup of the windlass and the wind vane today, as salt gets stuck to everything and we want to prevent corrosion. Now all are nicely cleaned, lubricated and ready for the next leg of the journey.
We didn’t do any exploration of the town as yet. Will do that tomorrow.
On route to Acapulco, Mexico
We left Barra de Navidad around 9:00 am on Tuesday 4 January 2011 for Acapulco which is 320 nm south east. We had a beautiful downwind sailing day until 1:00 am on Wednesday morning when the wind dropped. From this time until we dropped anchor at Puerto Lazaro Cardenas, we had just about everything against us. Dinis says that a bad day sailing is still better than a good day in the office, but I can debate that. We had no wind, too much wind, wind on the nose, wind against the current which create steep swells and variable winds. For example, with the wind on the nose we tacked back and forth in good winds (15 to 17 knots) but could not make headway. Did 18 nm only in 6 hours. We decided to motor as then we can point higher into the wind, but still we only made about 4.5 nm per hour. We were tired from hoisting and dropping the sails and also from the not so comfortable motion of the boat, so we decided to change course to be more comfortable and head towards Puerto Lazaro Cardenas. We can rest and fill up with diesel and continue tomorrow morning for the second half of the trip if there is favourable winds.
Not all was bad though, dolphins gave us a spectacular florescent light show at night riding the bow waves. This was the first time I saw this and it was very special, wish I had a night video recorder. We also feel the weather changing, much warmer, 32 degrees Celsius in the boat. Had to put the fans running to move the air around.
Hopefully the second part of our trip will be more enjoyable.
Barra de Navidad, Mexico
We left La Cruz Tuesday morning 28 December for Barra de Navidad, which is about 130 nm south. Banderas Bay is a huge bay, it took us 5 hours motoring to reach the end of the bay and start heading south. We had light winds (8 to 10 knots) and decided that we will hoist the drifter. Dinis has been telling me for ages that sailing downwind with the drifter or the spinnaker the boat should be able to handle up to 15 knots for the drifter and about 12 knots with the spinnaker, but I am still a bit wary. This trip I am very proud of myself, we manage to sail with the drifter up to 18 knots before we took it down and I have to concur with Dinis that the ride was more comfortable the stronger the winds became, as the boat rolls much less. It only took me so long to become comfortable. Now the spinnaker is still on my wary list.
We arrived in Barra de Navidad midday Wednesday. The entrance to the bay is quite narrow, but well marked with red and green buoys. The canal to the anchorage is not marked and a person has to be careful as the canal runs between sandbars. We got all the way points and plotted our course and was doing well, except that we misjudge the dark green round buoys for the fuel dock. We should have kept the bouy on starboard side and ended up on the sand. Luckily not too bad and we manage to get ourselves off with the help of a fellow cruiser in his dinghy.
Barra de Navidad is surrounded by mangroves and has a jungle feeling to it. It is a beautiful setting with a small town and lots of touristy activities.
There is also a small village that we still want to explore and a big hotel. We will stay here until after New Year.
Happy New Year to all !!
La Cruz, Banderas Bay, Mexico
We left Isabela Island on Saturday morning 18 December, had a good sail for about 2 hours when the wind dropped. We motor-sail the rest of the way. We noticed that the landscape is becoming sub-tropical, greener and more flowers.
We drop our anchor in a beautiful bay called Matanchen, just south of San Blas. Our friends from S/V Maloose join us the next day to do some exploring. We had a lovely BBQ fish at the beach restaurant and then we took a taxi into San Blas town. We visited the ruins (the Bells of San Blas and the old Spanish Fort).
We spend 2 days in Matanchen Bay and then made our way south to La Cruz in Banderas Bay. Dinis was lucky again by catching another mahi-mahi on route. We arrived in La Cruz on Wednesday afternoon 22 December.
We did all our shopping, getting the propane tanks filled and are ready for Christmas. We will spend a few days here after Christmas and then keep going south.
Isla Isabela, Mexico
We were suppose to leave Mazatlan on Saturday afternoon, but after filling the diesel tanks in El Cid marina we decided to spend the night in front of Isla Pajaros. While we were anchoring we heard our friends Ian and Ellen from Kasasa on route to Mazatlan. We contacted them via VHF and they drop their anchor close by just before sunset. We spend the evening catching up on news from home since we have not seen each other since San Diego.
We left Mazatlan around 4 pm on Sunday afternoon 12 December. We had a good sail with full main and genoa in rather light winds (7 to 10 knots) until midnight when the wind dropped below 5 knots. We motored the rest of the way. It was a very clear evening with lots of stars.
On Monday morning around 7 Dinis caught his first fish !! It was a Dorado and we estimate it's weight at about 10 lbs. We were both very excited. Dinis fillet the fish and we put it in the fridge for supper. By this time we were very close to Isabela island. We drop anchor at around 9 am on the east side of the island. There were 8 sailboats anchored at the time. Isla Isabela is a bird sanctuary with a small fishing village on the south side of the island. There are lots of birds and fish and we also saw whales. It is such a peaceful and beautiful place that we decided to stay longer.
On Tuesday we did lots of snorkelling and we also did some diving using the hooka system. Lots and lots of fish, some of them is so colourful, looks like tropical fish. While we were snorkelling we saw that the bottom of the boat needs a bit of a scrub.
On Wednesday afternoon Dinis got energetic and he dived to clean the starboard side of the hull. There was quite a bit of growth on the hull. Hopefully he will keep the energy level going for the port side. The zinc is still looking OK.
On Friday, our friends Jake and Vicky from S/V Maloose and Dinis and myself went for a dinghy ride around the island. We stopped at the fishing village so that we can take pictures of the birds and to explore. What a fantastic day we had, I took many pictures of the booby and frigate birds. I also took 2 videos of the frigate birds. There are also lots of iguanas.
Mazatlan, Mexico
Mazatlan is great, we are having so much fun that I do not know where to start. OK... from the beginning, we left Los Frailes on Thursday morning 2 December and sailed on a beam reach most of the way. It was blowing 15 to 16 knots constant with gusts of 18/20 at times. We manage to sail about ¾ of the way before the wind died and we went the rest of the way under motor. We dropped anchor late Friday afternoon.
Saturday morning we decided to leave all chores for the next day and head into town to explore. There were several cruising couples on the bus with the same idea. On route to the centre of old town, Dinis jumped up and started to wave through the window as he saw a familiar face. He was unable to flag this person down and ask the bus driver to slow down and made an exit. Now all this happened very fast and Dinis disappeared before I could do anything. The other cruising couples looked at me a bit confused and said 'your husband just got off the bus'. I managed to smile and said 'yes, he saw someone we know and was trying to get in touch'. I am sure that all this must have looked strange. Anyway I got off at the next bus stop and started to make my way down the street to find Dinis.
I found Dinis and Hugh 2 blocks down. After Dinis got off the bus he ran after Hugh unable to remember his name. Now how do you get a person's attention without knowing his name. The only thing Dinis manage to shout is 'Hey Cannuck...' Well it is great that we all manage to connect that day. Hugh is visiting his parents Trudie and Steve. They stay part of the year in Mazatlan. We all know each other from Vancouver, all liveaboards at Shelter Island, Richmond. Before we left on our trip we got all their contact information, but we lost these details and were wondering how we will be able to get in touch with Steve and Trudie.
We met up with Steve and Trudie and their friend Ron later Saturday afternoon at a fantastic restaurant. They told us that on Sunday they are going to Stone Island as there is another great restaurant. They usually take the panga there, so we all decided that it would be more fun taking the boat there, anchor and then going ashore with the dinghy.
On Sunday we anchored off Stone Island and Hugh decided that swimming to shore will be great, the rest of us decided that we will take a chance on Dinis and my 'not so perfect' beach landing record. We went ashore without any problems. Great our beach landing went up to about 70% !!
We had a lovely time catching up with events from home and life in Mexico. The food was great again. The time flew by and we decided that it is about time to head back as the sun is getting low. Should we make several dinghy rides to the boat or would all 6 adults fit in the dinghy ? Sure we will all fit. Trudie got into the dinghy first as not to get wet and the rest of us watching the waves, deciding when to make a run for it, so that Dinis can get the engine started and get us out of there. Neat less to say our co-ordination was not in sync. By the time Dinis got into the boat and got the engine started, Trudie got soak with several waves, the dinghy looked like a small swimming pool and both Hugh and me were wet. We manage to get ourselves into the dinghy. Where are Steve and Ron ? Oh no, knee deep in the waves out of reach. Dinis tried to stear the dinghy closer, avoiding the waves, but it was not close enough without Steve and Ron getting wet getting aboard. By now we were all laughing so hard. Well our beach landing record went down again, but we will all remember this day. We hadn't had so much fun in a long time !!
On Monday Steve and Trudie took us shopping. We needed a major provisioning, the last one was in Vancouver. After Sam's Club (Costco) and Soriana (Safeway) we manage to pack Steve's minivan quite full. Steve, Trudie, Ron, Carol and Hugh took us for supper. These Mexican restaurants are great, the food is fantastic. At night Steve and Hugh drove us back. We manage to put all the groceries in the dinghy. It took us about 2 hours packing all the provisions.
On Tuesday we drop the laundry for washing and went to the market to buy some seafood as Dinis and myself want to cook our friends supper. We did not find what we looked for and decided that prawns will do. We bought 4 kilos of prawns, some onion, garlic, tomatoes and cilantro. Dinis did a fine job and we had a great time. We also met Steve and Trudie's Mexican family, Raul, Lupita, Alex (middle son) and Rodriquez (youngest son). What a great family.
Well it can not be all fun, so today we have to do some boat chores. On Thursday we are meeting our friends again at Stone Island and then we will monitor the weather to leave and head south when weather permits.
Changing our plans
We wanted to sail more north into the Sea of Cortes, but change our plan as we have misjudged the winter northern winds. It blows for about 3 to 4 days and then you have a weather window for about 3 to 4 days. With the delay in Cabo San Lucas and the northern winds we decided to head to Mazatlan instead and make our way south from there. We are looking into sailing to Socorro Island which is about 400 nm offshore Banderas Bay and then make our way back to Manzanillo. This would be a great trip getting ourselves back into offshore sailing. We are also changing our route to sail to the Marquises Islands, from either Golfito, Costa Rica or Acapulco, Mexico, instead of Panama.