Apataki Atoll - Tuamotu

Posted 17 June 2011

Tamaro is a motu in Apataki Atoll, it is also the name of a pet nurse shark from Mr. Assan who is the patriarch of the Lau family. They own a pearl farm business and a boat dry storage up to 20 tonne and any width run by his son Alfred and his wife Pauline, with the help of Alfred's son Tony and his fiance Caroline.

The amazing thing about the shark is that at 2 to 3 o'clock in the afternoon he comes into the beach with half his body out of the water while Assam cuts fish on a board on top of his head and feeds him while he stays motionless, then he pats him as if he was a cat or dog.

We had a very short stay week in Apataki and enjoyed very much the hospitality of the Lau family. We also met several cruisers at anchor there and had lots of fun visiting, socializing and snorkeling. There are so many beautiful corals along the shore and close to the anchorage, it was appropriately named 'Coral-City' by our friends Eeva and Tapio (s/v Irene)'s grandchildren that visited them the previous year.

We also had our genoa fixed by Claude which is a sailmaker by trade and I feel a little better now, it was not a huge problem but could have cause problems especially in stronger winds.

Dinis helped another sailor Francois painting the bottom of his catamaran while in the boatyard and afterwards we had a sail with the company of other sailors and friends on his catamaran. The motion is so much different than a mono haul, but much more comfortable. Now Dinis is dreaming with doing another trip but in a catamaran...oh boy...

We had stronger winds for about 3 days, afterwards we made our way to the north eastern corner of the Atoll sailing along with s/v Irene. We met another sailboat in the northern anchorage and had a beautiful beach bbq the next day. We left the following morning early for our overnight sail to Fakarava Atoll.

Arrived in Apataki Atoll - Tuamotu

Posted 2 June 2011

We just drop anchor in an absolutely beautiful bay in Apataki Atoll. We left Manihi Atoll yesterday around 4:45 pm local time for our overnight trip to Apataki Atoll. We had a fantastic sail all the way with calm seas and 10 to 13 knots of wind on the beam. We did well, made the 78 nm within 12 hours. A strong current was against us as we entered the pass to the Atoll, so we moored the boat at the wharf next to the village around 8:00 am this morning. We did some exploring and a small provisioning, not much here as far as groceries. We waited until 1:00 pm for the current to turn and be more in our favour. We motored for another 10 nm in the Atoll to the south eastern corner of the Atoll where they have a small boat yard. The water is so clear, looks like a swimming pool, a person just wants to jump in. Tomorrow we will get the dinghy in the water and do some exploring.

Manihi Atoll - Tuamotu

Posted 29 May 2011

This week that we spend in Manihi Atoll flew by so fast. It is so beautiful here. We spend the week exploring the Atoll, snorkeling to look at the coral and fishes with our friends Ib and Yadranka from s/v Aeolus. We were invited for a Tuamotuan picnic on the beach at the blue lagoon by Fernando and his friends. The blue lagoon is on the eastern side of the Atoll about 15 nm from the entrance. The water is so clear, is looks like a swimming pool. We had great fun learning the local way of doing things, from making salad from the palm tree and greens for a green salad, making bread from the old coconuts, grating coconuts and making a fire using the coral stones as charcoals. We had a feast and was lucky for a visit by the black tip reef sharks that swam close by eating the fish bones we threw for them.

We have a small problem with the outboard, looks like the impeller, lucky we have spares. We will look at this tomorrow morning and then heading for Apataki Atoll on Tuesday morning 31 May. Apataki Atoll is about 50 nm from here.

On route to Manihi Altoll - Tuamotu

Posted 23 May 2011

We left early Wednesday morning 18 May for the 480 nm to Manihi Atoll. It just happened that six of the boats that left that morning formed a little net between each other, checking in once per day on the SSB radio. We had perfect sailing conditions all the way, the wind was blowing between 10 and 15 knots with calm seas. It took us 4 days to reached the Atoll, but we had to slow the boat down to arrive in the morning instead of night time. This was the only time that we were uncomfortable, as the reduced sail cause the boat to roll more.

The Tuamotu Archipelago are low lying islands with reefs and strong currents, so a person has to be careful navigating in these waters. We were 3 boats that entered the pass in Manihi Atoll on Sunday morning 22 May. S/V Tiger, then s/v Aeolus and then us. The pass was quite easy and we could clearly see the coral. Beginners luck we got our anchor stuck on a coral head. Will have to dive to loosen it if we can not manage to get it loose by engine and patience alone. We have been told that 80% of boats in this anchorage have the same problem, so we do not feel too bad.

Ua-Pou Island - Marquises

Posted 22 May 2011

As we approached Ua-Pou Island we noticed several pinnacles on the mountains and also a more dry vegetation. A beautiful island. We were later told that this island is one of the driest islands in Marquises and that the water supply is shutdown 3 times during the day at times.

We found the people the most friendly here, for example, Dinis asked a lady where we can find a restaurant as he would like to get a beer and some food. She told us that the restaurant is closed as it is Sunday, but it would be open later in the evening. She then offered us some grapefruit, oranges and lemons and drove us to her house to pick the fruit up and then took us for a drive through the village.

The next morning we left this anchorage for another anchorage on the same island. We were 9 boats anchored in this bay, most waiting for the wind to pick up for the Tuamotus. We were invited for a traditional meal at a local resident and his family. This was great, all together we were 8 sailboats that joined in the festivities. That night we ate until we could no more, the food was lovely and everyone had a great time. The host and his family did some traditional dancing. Later when everyone had eaten the fun started, all the men had to learn the 'Pig Dance'. We were in hysterics and I took several photos and videos (which I can only post when in Tahiti), then it was the ladies time. We had to do some traditional dancing mimicking our host's daughter, looked easier than actually doing it. Then is were the children's time.

We were glad that the next morning the wind still did not pick up as most of us needed some more sleep and preparing the boats. We got the dinghy all washed and stowed.

The next morning Wednesday 18 May, 7 boats left for the Tuamotus from this anchorage.

Nuku-Hiva Island - Marquises

Posted 19 May 2011

Baie de Taiohae is a big bay and we had no problems finding a spot to anchor. We were glad to see our friends Ib and Yadranka from s/v Aeolus at anchor in the bay. We last saw them in Hiva-Oa. We spend a few days exploring the beautiful village, done some provisioning and trying to sort out the internet and our gmail account problems. Unfortunately singing on to our gmail in Hiva-Oa caused us having to verify our account by cell phone (which we do not have) as gmail security detected that we signed in from an 'Unusual Location'. Only in Tahiti will we be able to resolve our email problem, and will then be able to read and send emails.

On Thursday May 12, we motored to Baie Hakaui (Daniels Bay), which is just 5 nm east on the same island. The bay is hidden and just as a person think there is no bay, this magnificent bay opens up. Very protected and beautiful. Our friends from s/v Aeolus and Kittywake were also anchored in the bay.

The Marquisan people are very proud people and in this specific village we were told by Augustine (local resident) that the people still prefer no electricity. Augustine is a very interesting person, he is a hunter (hunting wild goat and pig) and also do wood, bone and stone carvings in his spare time. We had the pleasure in meeting him.

That evening all the boats at anchor and Augustine went for a beach party. Everyone brought something to eat and drink. It was a lovely evening. Most cruisers done the walk to the waterfall, only Kittywake and us did not yet, so we decided to do it the next day. The following morning we had a great walk, but only made it halfway to the waterfall. We were eaten alive by the mosquitos. On our way back we picked up our fruit that Augustine prepared for us.

We stayed another day watching the weather for our crossing to the Tuamotus. There was not much wind so we decided to sail 25 nm south to Au Pou Island.

Fatu-Hiva Island - Marquises

Posted 15 May 2011

We had a boisterous sail from Tahuata Island to Fatu-Hiva Island with head winds 15 to 22 knots, which caused us to sail slightly south east of the island, took us 11 hours to finally reached the island. This was well worth it, as the anchorage was the most spectacular and beautiful.

The following day we met up with Mary and John from s/v Kittywake and Gary and Sue from s/v Yaringa to explore the village and also make the 1 and 1/2 hours walk to the beautiful waterfall and natural pool. Dinis negotiated with Christian (local resident) for fruit for us and we also bought a small tapa drawing from Christian for the boat.

Our trek up to the waterfall were fun with lots of laughter and jokes, so it took no time to get there. When we reached the waterfall and pool, we were surprise how cold the water was. Needless to say took us awhile before we were all in the water. It was refreshing and we were enjoying the swimming and just relaxing in the water. We saw fresh water shrimp and a eel. The eel was quite tame and not scared of people.

Our trek back was much easier and back in the village we got our fruit from Christian. We said our good buys to John and Mary as they were leaving the next day. We spend another day at anchor preparing for our overnight trip to Nuku-Hiva which is 128 nm north east of the island.

S/V Yaringa and ourselves left on Sunday 8 May. S/V Yaringa headed towards Tahuata Island which is on-route to Nuku-Hiva. We tried to make a phone patch via the ham radio to South Africa to wish my mom a happy Mothersday, but unfortunately my mom could not hear us, although her voice came load and clear over the radio. "Ma, hoop ma het 'n lekker Moedersdag gehad". We are struggling with internet services here in French Polynesia.

We arrived Monday 9 May midday in Baie Taiohae (capital of Marquises) Nuku-Hiva Island.

Hiva-Oa, Marquises

Posted 3 May 2011

We arrived on a overcast and rainy day at the beautiful Hiva-Oa island. The bay was packed with 19 sailing boats all anchored with bow and stern anchors. We were lucky that one boat left just before we arrived and had a spot to drop the anchor.

We pumped the dinghy the next day and headed into town to check-in. Dinis used his Portuguese passport and required no bond, so off to the bank we went to pay the bond for me. I had some trouble with my ATM card and could not withdraw the money for the bond. We decided to try again the following day and went for lunch and then back to the boat.

The following day we had more success with the money and paid the bond. All non-European union people have to pay a bond which is equivalent to a air ticket price back to your home city, which will be refunded when you check-out of French Polynesia. We went back to the 'Gendarme' to complete our check-in. This was the easiest and cheapest check-in, all we had to do was paying the bond, filling out a form and paying 70 cents for a stamp at the post office to send the paperwork to Tahiti.

We were very impressed with the town and the people, again very clean and very friendly. It helps that Dinis speaks French, although most people understand English. The only shock for us was the prices, everything on the islands are expensive, about double the price compared to the Canadian dollar. For example I bought 2 lettuce, 6 cucumbers, 5 grapefruit and 1 cabbage for about $20. We needed fresh vegetables and were lucky that a supply ship came in the previous day, so we managed to stock-up again. We also found some very nice New Zealand cheese that needs no refrigeration.

On Sunday 1 May we did a tour of the island with Jo and Rob from S/V Blue Moon. We visited 3 archeological sites, went for a traditional lunch and enjoyed the rugged driving conditions around the island.

We left this morning, Tuesday 3 May for Baie Hanatefau on Tahuata Island, about 14 nm from Hiva_Oa.

We arrived in Hiva-Oa, Marquises

Posted 26 April 2011

We finally arrived after 23 days. The passage was fast with the help of the current that pushed us along. We dropped anchor at 14:00 hours local time. The weather was overcast and rainy, so we decided to take the afternoon and just relax watching a movie and then going to bed to catch up all the lost sleep. We will pump up the dinghy and check in tomorrow morning. More on our trip with the next posting.

On route to Marquises - 3 to 4 Days to go

Posted 22 April 2011

We are still doing fine, just a very long passage. Dinis enjoys the solitude and the tranquility of the passage much more than me. I much prefer coastal cruising and shorter passages. This is our longest passage in our planned circumnavigation. We saw dolphins twice, saw lots of flying fish, some birds and 1 fishing vessel, other than that a pretty quite and uneventful trip.

The weather is good with light winds (8 to 15 knots) most of the time. We had a few more squalls, but all in all great weather. The days are mostly overcast with the temperature from 27 to 31 degrees Celsius. This is much cooler than we had in Galapagos and Central America.

The south sub-tropical current is in our favour with 1 to 2 knots per hour. This adds 20 to 40 nm per day to our distance traveled. Our best 24 hr run is 160 nm.

We are still sailing with our twin head sail configuration. We have our staysail poled out to the windward with the spinnaker pole and the genoa to leeward with the sheet supported by the end of the boom. This works great as we only have to furl the genoa when the winds increase.

The Marquises Islands are French Territory and consist of 12 volcanic islands. 3 of the Islands have facilities for checking in and out. We are heading for Hiva-Oa island. This island is on the southern part of the group of islands. The city name is Atuona.

All the 'Rock and Roll' motion of the boat had a positive impact on our waistlines. Both Dinis and myself are a little bit more toned since we left the Galapagos.

On route to Marquises - Halfway

Posted 16 April 2010

Our position is 08 degrees 20 minutes south and 113 degrees 57 minutes west, we are halfway !! Took us 12 and a half days to reached the halfway point, 1500 nm to go. For a couple of days after we left Galapagos on Sunday April 3, we had to motor to get through the doldrums. There was no wind, the seas calm with the daily squall or sometimes a series of squalls. We did not mind the squalls as with it came rain that washed all the salt off the boat. Only 3 times, and always on my watch in the early morning hours, had the squalls cause us to reduce sails. Monitoring the squalls on the radar you had a pretty good idea if it is going to be a big one or not, the thing that surprised me most was that the squalls hit within seconds and did not give you much time for reducing sails. By the third morning still getting drenched we had the sails reduced in no time. The squalls are more active close to the equator and since we passed latitude 06 degrees south we had no more squalls.

We are sailing on a twin head sail configuration, and this will most probably be for the rest of the way unless the wind changes direction. This sail configuration is great as it is self correcting, not much pressure on the wind wane and not much for us to do. It can be rolly, especially when the sea swell gets a bit bigger.

We have settled into a routine of sleep, eat, read, radio talk, check the weather and the boat etc. We had 3 sightings of commercial ships since we left, not much traffic, although we are 1 of 6 sailboats within 400 nm miles of each other on route to the Marquesas from Galapagos. We have a radio schedule twice daily with the group of boats. This is also reassuring for me to know that we are not entirely alone.

We consumed all the fresh vegetables and fruit except for some potatoes, onions and a watermelon. We still have lots of frozen vegetables and fruit, so we should be OK until close to the end of our passage. Then the tin vegetables and fruit will have to do.

One of Dinis ham radio friends arranged for us to get a phone patch via the ham radio and we spoke to Morgan. This was our highlight of the trip so far. Both Dinis and myself were quite overwhelmed when we first heard Morgan's voice booming loud and clear over the radio. It was so nice to speak to him. We will do this again before he leaves on his next assignment.

Farewell Galapagos

Posted 14 April 2010

We were very sad when we raised anchor on Sunday 3 April for our long passage to the Marquesas. Galapagos was the one place that we both loved. Wildlife, nature and its people live in harmony and this piecefullness engulfs a person. We say farewell with the fondest memories.

We would like to say thank you to our agent Bolivar Pesantes Palma and his family. Bolivar did not only do all our paperwork clearing us into and out of San Cristobal, but also introduce us to his family and friends, organized an island tour, gave us advice on good restaurants and steer us in the correct direction for sightseeing. For anyone interested in contacting Bolivar or his wife Grace, the agency name is Naugala Galapagos Marine Company. Bolivar cell number is 593-094-205-158 and Grace cell number is 593-091-479-295. They can also be reached by email naugala@hotmail.com

Another person we would like to thanks is Martin Delgado (Dive Master). We did our snorkeling tour with his company and what a great experience is was. His website is www.tranquilodivers.com and he can be reached via email surfistamartin@yahoo.com.ar

We will surely miss this unique place on earth and its people.

Galapagos Radio Station - HC8GR

Posted 13 April 2010
Dinis

In the Galapagos we met Don Guido Rossio and I believe the only Ham (HC8GR) in the archipelago at the moment. Four American aficionados supplied the materials and the towers were build in Finca Chelito II, El Junco, Don Guido's farm.

The antenna farm consists of four towers of 50 meters high each, installed in a square of 60 meters by 60 meters, orientated in a north east direction.

The radio shack is behind and in the middle of towers #1 and #4.

Tower #1 is a 20 meters band with 4 yagis, which are pointed in different directions. Tower #2 is a 10 meters band with 5 yagis, which are pointed in different directions. Tower #3 is a 15 meters band with 5 yagis, which are pointed in different directions. Tower #4 is a 40,12 and 17 meters bands with 2 yagis, which are pointed in different directions.

At 50 meters height, between towers #4 and #1 and towers #1 and #2 are 2 dipoles for 80 meters bands. Also between towers #2 and #3 and towers #3 and #4 are 2 dipoles for 40 meters bands. From tower #2 to the ground there is a dipole for 160 meters band and one as well from tower #3. There are also 2 listening antennas at 3 meters height from the ground of 250 meters each.

Tower #5 is Don Guido's personal antenna and at 18 meters height he has 1 tribander for 20, 15,and 10 meters bands and 1 VHF Marine.

The building at ground level has an open plan kitchen, eating area, a small office and private accommodation. Next floor up are the sleeping rooms. Each room has its own shower/toilet. On the last floor is the radio room, with an outside patio. This is an all business room with lots of equipment, cables, computer keyboards, 7 Ameritrom Al-1200 amplifiers, workshop with all sorts of tools and 7 radios inside their own private storage containers. On the walls all around have awards plates with the majority of them world records.

Don Guido was very active with sailors crossing from Panama to Galapagos and to the Marquesas. After we met, he invited us to spend some time at his farm and for me to play radio. My working conditions at the farm was a Kenwood TS-930S with 100 watts. To move around the different bands, one simply turned a switch. I called CQ, my call sign in the Galapagos was VA7DIN/HC8. The pile up was almost instantaneous and nothing prepared me for the amount and intensity of the calls that came into the air. I worked all over Europe, USA, Canada, South America and even a Romania Maritime Mobil going around Cape Horn. After 2 hours I threw my towel into the ring defeated. I made 134 contacts, a good ham operator will do that in a half hour, but I pure and simply did not have the experience to control a pile up of that magnitude.

For anyone that wishes to see the station you can contact Guido Rossio on 593-5-2520414 or email him at super.g.c@hotmail.com

"Thank you very much Don Guido for your invitation and allowing me to work from your station, your hospitality and to your wife for the lovely supper she had prepared for us"

Visiting aboard Isla Puna

Posted 31 March 2011, written by Dinis

'Isla Puna', I believe is a medium size tanker, 1,000,000 gallons of fuel, captained by Alejandro Soto, that services the fuel needs of Galapagos Islands. We had the opportunity to meet him and enjoy his company for half a day. Captain Alejandro is one of those people that one likes at first glance, warm, polite, well receiving and a proud Ecuadorian. Before joining the Merchant Navy, he was Capitan De Mar e Guerra in the Ecuadorian Navy.

He came aboard 'Vida Nova' and showed genuine interest how the boat was equipped and laid out. Afterwards he invited us to tour Motor tanker 'Isla Puna'. He was a great host, showing us the whole ship, from bow to stern, the deployment of the abandon ship, the machine room, the galley, the mess, Captain's quarters and the command bridge.

The first impression was light and cleanness. As a matter of fact the whole ship was very clean and tidy. As one came into the command bridge the feeling was of light, space and organization. The working stations were spacious and very well laid out. In the center of the bridge was the wheel station and to port side were two individual radar stations, that the Captain monitored, and the Captain's chair. From the wheel to starboard were the engine controls, the AIS etc. On the port side aft was a full size chart table with 4 chart drawers underneath. The ship's course was plotted on the charts every time it changes course, time, and speed. Above the chart table was the depth sounder, GPS and various instruments related to navigation. On the starboard aft side was the radio station, with VHF, HF and emergency frequencies monitored.

Captain Alejandro invited us to watch the ship being moved from one crowed side of the bay to a more clear side as the departure was set for 02:00 hours local time. The whole affair was so calm, orders being given and acknowledgements from the two bridge officers, one at the wheel station and the other at the engine controls. At the right time the port anchor was weight, the stern lines released and finally the main anchor came up. We left at 3.5 knots of speed (we hardly felt it) with the Captain constantly monitoring the radar, bearings and depth. After anchoring we were led to the starboard pilot ladder, said our good byes and best wishes and boarded the ships huge inflatable service dinghy.

It was a pity that we could not accept the invitation to sail overnight to Isla Isabella with 'Isla Puna', but time is running out and we must make headway. When we returned to our boat one day later, I was surprised by a very well tied plastic bag with two ship's golf shirts and a personalized, stamped and signed note by Captain Alejandro Soto.

"Thank you Captain Alejandro for your warm welcome, as well your crew. I would like to use the opportunity to apologize to the two bridge officers for not remembering their names. Please forgive an old man's memory. Capitan Alejandro, los desejanos buenna suerto para usted su tripulation numa mission importante e peligroza servindo Galapagos. Sinceramente Dinis e Veronica S/V Vida Nova"

Playa Loberia, Leon Dormido, Islas Lobos, Galapagos

Posted 30 March 2011

Friday morning 25 March we took a taxi to Playa Loberia to do some snorkeling with turtles and sea lions and also to see the marine iguanas. This is a beautiful beach with great surf. We arrived early in the morning at high tide and many surfers were already surfing.

The water was quite refreshing, colder than in Central America, but still nice to snorkel. We saw our first turtles and I was very happy. The water was so clear you could see for quite far. Took lots of pictures and a beautiful video of swimming with the turtle. By the size of this turtle he must be older than the rest we saw. The sea lions was not that active so we did not get any underwater photos of them there.

What a great morning we had, met some young men from Brazil traveling. They were surfing and Dinis had a great time speaking Portuguese again. They invited us to join them snorkeling on Saturday at Leon Dormido and Islas Lobos. So Saturday morning we left for our snorkeling and what a blast we had. We did see Galapagos sharks, not big sharks about 1 to 1.5 meters, lots of turtles and fish.

On Sunday 27 March, we went for a tour of the island. Our first stop was at El Junco Lake. We walked around the lake and had a great view of the island. We then stoped at Cerro Colorado Galapagos Breeding Station to see the Giant tortoises. This is very interesting and these tortoises are really big. Their size completely surprised me. We did some more sightseeing before we left for lunch.

Monday 28 March, we took our Brazilian friends for a sail on our boat. There was not much wind, but still we had a wonderful time with Gabriel, Fabio and Thobias. It was nice to have the young men onboard and I missed Morgan even more. As all young guys, they were full of energy so Dinis suggested that they go up the mast while we were motoring. What a thrill for them, on goes the safety harness and up they go. Tobias went first with his camera and took some lovely photos from the top, next was Fabio and then Gabriel. Dinis cooked a special Bacalhau dish for us all. All the sailing photos are curtesy of Thobias.