NAVEGAR É PRECISO

We arrived in Hiva-Oa, Marquises

Posted 26 April 2011

We finally arrived after 23 days. The passage was fast with the help of the current that pushed us along. We dropped anchor at 14:00 hours local time. The weather was overcast and rainy, so we decided to take the afternoon and just relax watching a movie and then going to bed to catch up all the lost sleep. We will pump up the dinghy and check in tomorrow morning. More on our trip with the next posting.

On route to Marquises - 3 to 4 Days to go

Posted 22 April 2011

We are still doing fine, just a very long passage. Dinis enjoys the solitude and the tranquility of the passage much more than me. I much prefer coastal cruising and shorter passages. This is our longest passage in our planned circumnavigation. We saw dolphins twice, saw lots of flying fish, some birds and 1 fishing vessel, other than that a pretty quite and uneventful trip.

The weather is good with light winds (8 to 15 knots) most of the time. We had a few more squalls, but all in all great weather. The days are mostly overcast with the temperature from 27 to 31 degrees Celsius. This is much cooler than we had in Galapagos and Central America.

The south sub-tropical current is in our favour with 1 to 2 knots per hour. This adds 20 to 40 nm per day to our distance traveled. Our best 24 hr run is 160 nm.

We are still sailing with our twin head sail configuration. We have our staysail poled out to the windward with the spinnaker pole and the genoa to leeward with the sheet supported by the end of the boom. This works great as we only have to furl the genoa when the winds increase.

The Marquises Islands are French Territory and consist of 12 volcanic islands. 3 of the Islands have facilities for checking in and out. We are heading for Hiva-Oa island. This island is on the southern part of the group of islands. The city name is Atuona.

All the 'Rock and Roll' motion of the boat had a positive impact on our waistlines. Both Dinis and myself are a little bit more toned since we left the Galapagos.

On route to Marquises - Halfway

Posted 16 April 2010

Our position is 08 degrees 20 minutes south and 113 degrees 57 minutes west, we are halfway !! Took us 12 and a half days to reached the halfway point, 1500 nm to go. For a couple of days after we left Galapagos on Sunday April 3, we had to motor to get through the doldrums. There was no wind, the seas calm with the daily squall or sometimes a series of squalls. We did not mind the squalls as with it came rain that washed all the salt off the boat. Only 3 times, and always on my watch in the early morning hours, had the squalls cause us to reduce sails. Monitoring the squalls on the radar you had a pretty good idea if it is going to be a big one or not, the thing that surprised me most was that the squalls hit within seconds and did not give you much time for reducing sails. By the third morning still getting drenched we had the sails reduced in no time. The squalls are more active close to the equator and since we passed latitude 06 degrees south we had no more squalls.

We are sailing on a twin head sail configuration, and this will most probably be for the rest of the way unless the wind changes direction. This sail configuration is great as it is self correcting, not much pressure on the wind wane and not much for us to do. It can be rolly, especially when the sea swell gets a bit bigger.

We have settled into a routine of sleep, eat, read, radio talk, check the weather and the boat etc. We had 3 sightings of commercial ships since we left, not much traffic, although we are 1 of 6 sailboats within 400 nm miles of each other on route to the Marquesas from Galapagos. We have a radio schedule twice daily with the group of boats. This is also reassuring for me to know that we are not entirely alone.

We consumed all the fresh vegetables and fruit except for some potatoes, onions and a watermelon. We still have lots of frozen vegetables and fruit, so we should be OK until close to the end of our passage. Then the tin vegetables and fruit will have to do.

One of Dinis ham radio friends arranged for us to get a phone patch via the ham radio and we spoke to Morgan. This was our highlight of the trip so far. Both Dinis and myself were quite overwhelmed when we first heard Morgan's voice booming loud and clear over the radio. It was so nice to speak to him. We will do this again before he leaves on his next assignment.

Farewell Galapagos

Posted 14 April 2010

We were very sad when we raised anchor on Sunday 3 April for our long passage to the Marquesas. Galapagos was the one place that we both loved. Wildlife, nature and its people live in harmony and this piecefullness engulfs a person. We say farewell with the fondest memories.

We would like to say thank you to our agent Bolivar Pesantes Palma and his family. Bolivar did not only do all our paperwork clearing us into and out of San Cristobal, but also introduce us to his family and friends, organized an island tour, gave us advice on good restaurants and steer us in the correct direction for sightseeing. For anyone interested in contacting Bolivar or his wife Grace, the agency name is Naugala Galapagos Marine Company. Bolivar cell number is 593-094-205-158 and Grace cell number is 593-091-479-295. They can also be reached by email naugala@hotmail.com

Another person we would like to thanks is Martin Delgado (Dive Master). We did our snorkeling tour with his company and what a great experience is was. His website is www.tranquilodivers.com and he can be reached via email surfistamartin@yahoo.com.ar

We will surely miss this unique place on earth and its people.

Galapagos Radio Station - HC8GR

Posted 13 April 2010
Dinis

In the Galapagos we met Don Guido Rossio and I believe the only Ham (HC8GR) in the archipelago at the moment. Four American aficionados supplied the materials and the towers were build in Finca Chelito II, El Junco, Don Guido's farm.

The antenna farm consists of four towers of 50 meters high each, installed in a square of 60 meters by 60 meters, orientated in a north east direction.

The radio shack is behind and in the middle of towers #1 and #4.

Tower #1 is a 20 meters band with 4 yagis, which are pointed in different directions. Tower #2 is a 10 meters band with 5 yagis, which are pointed in different directions. Tower #3 is a 15 meters band with 5 yagis, which are pointed in different directions. Tower #4 is a 40,12 and 17 meters bands with 2 yagis, which are pointed in different directions.

At 50 meters height, between towers #4 and #1 and towers #1 and #2 are 2 dipoles for 80 meters bands. Also between towers #2 and #3 and towers #3 and #4 are 2 dipoles for 40 meters bands. From tower #2 to the ground there is a dipole for 160 meters band and one as well from tower #3. There are also 2 listening antennas at 3 meters height from the ground of 250 meters each.

Tower #5 is Don Guido's personal antenna and at 18 meters height he has 1 tribander for 20, 15,and 10 meters bands and 1 VHF Marine.

The building at ground level has an open plan kitchen, eating area, a small office and private accommodation. Next floor up are the sleeping rooms. Each room has its own shower/toilet. On the last floor is the radio room, with an outside patio. This is an all business room with lots of equipment, cables, computer keyboards, 7 Ameritrom Al-1200 amplifiers, workshop with all sorts of tools and 7 radios inside their own private storage containers. On the walls all around have awards plates with the majority of them world records.

Don Guido was very active with sailors crossing from Panama to Galapagos and to the Marquesas. After we met, he invited us to spend some time at his farm and for me to play radio. My working conditions at the farm was a Kenwood TS-930S with 100 watts. To move around the different bands, one simply turned a switch. I called CQ, my call sign in the Galapagos was VA7DIN/HC8. The pile up was almost instantaneous and nothing prepared me for the amount and intensity of the calls that came into the air. I worked all over Europe, USA, Canada, South America and even a Romania Maritime Mobil going around Cape Horn. After 2 hours I threw my towel into the ring defeated. I made 134 contacts, a good ham operator will do that in a half hour, but I pure and simply did not have the experience to control a pile up of that magnitude.

For anyone that wishes to see the station you can contact Guido Rossio on 593-5-2520414 or email him at super.g.c@hotmail.com

"Thank you very much Don Guido for your invitation and allowing me to work from your station, your hospitality and to your wife for the lovely supper she had prepared for us"

Visiting aboard Isla Puna

Posted 31 March 2011, written by Dinis

'Isla Puna', I believe is a medium size tanker, 1,000,000 gallons of fuel, captained by Alejandro Soto, that services the fuel needs of Galapagos Islands. We had the opportunity to meet him and enjoy his company for half a day. Captain Alejandro is one of those people that one likes at first glance, warm, polite, well receiving and a proud Ecuadorian. Before joining the Merchant Navy, he was Capitan De Mar e Guerra in the Ecuadorian Navy.

He came aboard 'Vida Nova' and showed genuine interest how the boat was equipped and laid out. Afterwards he invited us to tour Motor tanker 'Isla Puna'. He was a great host, showing us the whole ship, from bow to stern, the deployment of the abandon ship, the machine room, the galley, the mess, Captain's quarters and the command bridge.

The first impression was light and cleanness. As a matter of fact the whole ship was very clean and tidy. As one came into the command bridge the feeling was of light, space and organization. The working stations were spacious and very well laid out. In the center of the bridge was the wheel station and to port side were two individual radar stations, that the Captain monitored, and the Captain's chair. From the wheel to starboard were the engine controls, the AIS etc. On the port side aft was a full size chart table with 4 chart drawers underneath. The ship's course was plotted on the charts every time it changes course, time, and speed. Above the chart table was the depth sounder, GPS and various instruments related to navigation. On the starboard aft side was the radio station, with VHF, HF and emergency frequencies monitored.

Captain Alejandro invited us to watch the ship being moved from one crowed side of the bay to a more clear side as the departure was set for 02:00 hours local time. The whole affair was so calm, orders being given and acknowledgements from the two bridge officers, one at the wheel station and the other at the engine controls. At the right time the port anchor was weight, the stern lines released and finally the main anchor came up. We left at 3.5 knots of speed (we hardly felt it) with the Captain constantly monitoring the radar, bearings and depth. After anchoring we were led to the starboard pilot ladder, said our good byes and best wishes and boarded the ships huge inflatable service dinghy.

It was a pity that we could not accept the invitation to sail overnight to Isla Isabella with 'Isla Puna', but time is running out and we must make headway. When we returned to our boat one day later, I was surprised by a very well tied plastic bag with two ship's golf shirts and a personalized, stamped and signed note by Captain Alejandro Soto.

"Thank you Captain Alejandro for your warm welcome, as well your crew. I would like to use the opportunity to apologize to the two bridge officers for not remembering their names. Please forgive an old man's memory. Capitan Alejandro, los desejanos buenna suerto para usted su tripulation numa mission importante e peligroza servindo Galapagos. Sinceramente Dinis e Veronica S/V Vida Nova"

Playa Loberia, Leon Dormido, Islas Lobos, Galapagos

Posted 30 March 2011

Friday morning 25 March we took a taxi to Playa Loberia to do some snorkeling with turtles and sea lions and also to see the marine iguanas. This is a beautiful beach with great surf. We arrived early in the morning at high tide and many surfers were already surfing.

The water was quite refreshing, colder than in Central America, but still nice to snorkel. We saw our first turtles and I was very happy. The water was so clear you could see for quite far. Took lots of pictures and a beautiful video of swimming with the turtle. By the size of this turtle he must be older than the rest we saw. The sea lions was not that active so we did not get any underwater photos of them there.

What a great morning we had, met some young men from Brazil traveling. They were surfing and Dinis had a great time speaking Portuguese again. They invited us to join them snorkeling on Saturday at Leon Dormido and Islas Lobos. So Saturday morning we left for our snorkeling and what a blast we had. We did see Galapagos sharks, not big sharks about 1 to 1.5 meters, lots of turtles and fish.

On Sunday 27 March, we went for a tour of the island. Our first stop was at El Junco Lake. We walked around the lake and had a great view of the island. We then stoped at Cerro Colorado Galapagos Breeding Station to see the Giant tortoises. This is very interesting and these tortoises are really big. Their size completely surprised me. We did some more sightseeing before we left for lunch.

Monday 28 March, we took our Brazilian friends for a sail on our boat. There was not much wind, but still we had a wonderful time with Gabriel, Fabio and Thobias. It was nice to have the young men onboard and I missed Morgan even more. As all young guys, they were full of energy so Dinis suggested that they go up the mast while we were motoring. What a thrill for them, on goes the safety harness and up they go. Tobias went first with his camera and took some lovely photos from the top, next was Fabio and then Gabriel. Dinis cooked a special Bacalhau dish for us all. All the sailing photos are curtesy of Thobias.

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Galapagos

Posted 25 March 2011

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the capital of the province of Galapagos, it is characterized by its devoted people and it is mainly fishing and tourism activities that have come to develop, in a sustainable way, the environment. The highlands of San Cristobal have many farms and cattle ranches.

On this island there was a fishing company called 'The Land' which had its flowering for the years 1952 - 1960. In addition a large successful sugar mill was installed and led by Manuel J. Cobos.

Since a hundred years ago San Cristobal island has always been inhabited, it is mainly because of its many sources of fresh water, located in the mountains inside the island. At an altitude of 650 meters a freshwater lake in the crater of El Junco can be found. This lake is filled during the rainy season and the crater walls do not leak. Many frigate birds use this water to clean their feathers of the salt.

Interpretation Center, Galapagos National Park

Posted 23 March 2011

We visited the Interpretation Center of Galapagos National Park yesterday. It is located at the northern edge of town. It is composed of three independent buildings connected by walk ways. Presents exhibition halls and conference rooms, natural history that explains the origin of the islands, human history that describes the presence of man since the discovery of the Galapagos Conservation and lounge showing interest in protecting and conserving the environment. It also has some trails that can be traversed without a guide, an outdoor auditorium available, some scale models of boats and a map in high relief of the islands.

We loved this place, very clean and friendly. On the trails we saw lots of geckos, small birds, sea lions, firgard birds, pelicans, an iguana, insects and spiders. The spiders make their webbing between trees, and some over the walkway. We walked into a few spider webs and then kept our hats on.

On the malecon we saw lots of sea lions, a children's play park full of sea lions, they come as close as about 1 meter of the roads as well. There is a tidal sea pool that the local kids enjoy swimming, as do the baby sea lions. Quite interesting that human and animal shares the same pool without incident. Adult sea lions kept to one side of the pool while the baby sea lions swam.

We arrived in Galapagos

Posted 21 March 2011

We arrived !! We made it in 5 and half days. We had a great day sailing and also had a small celebration crossing the equator. I had the camera ready to capture the changing from North to South, but was too slow and only manage to capture 00 degrees 00.0018 minutes South. So we are officially in the southern hemisphere. Dinis was on the ham radio talking to our friend Stephen in Gautemala. Afterwards Dinis gave a toast and a healthy shot of rum to King Neptune.

We drop anchor at 19:00 local time in the dark in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Isla San Cristobal, Galapagos. Not too difficult bay at night, but we kept to the entrance of the bay for the night. We might re-anchor tomorrow during daylight.

On route to Galapagos - Day 5

Posted 21 March 2011

Sunday 20 March was a continuation from the previous day, the same weather conditions. At least yesterday both Dinis and myself were feeling more energetic. Beating into the weather, although the seas are not big (about 3 feet swell) is very tiring. The wind changed during the night to a SE direction. This was exactly what we were waiting for, as we were about 10 degrees off course and can now sail more directly. We have done 138 nm in the last 24 hours and have another 82 nm left. At times we had 2 knots of current with us.
Please join us for a mid-morning toast today, we will pass the equator. We we should reach Isla San Cristobal later today. We are hoping for a day time arrival, but that might not be possible. That will make the trip 5 and half days.

On route to Galapagos - Day 4

Posted 20 March 2011

Today, Saturday 19 March was one of the best sailing days so far. The wind changed blowing from the South 10 to 14 knots. This is great and we also have at least 1 knot of current with us. We did a 115 nm in the last 24 hours, still 220 nm left to Isla San Cristobal. We saw no traffic all day and night, making for a long and boring 24 hours. We did pass the halfway point around lunch time, I tried to make a cheese pan bread for celebration, but it was not my best. Both Dinis and myself were feeling lethargic and Dinis was suffering from a headache as well, I assume it is from the heat. In the late afternoon we got another 2 booby bird hitch hikers. They stayed the night on the pulpit. Now we can really call it the poop deck.

On route to Galapagos - Day 3

Posted 19 March 2011

The third day was full of surprises. Our stowaway juvenile booby bird left early this morning, I assume that Isla Del Coco was close enough to fly to. At that time we were about 130 nm south east of the island. We are still steaming along under engine, but had at least a few hours of sailing. We saw lots of dolphins today, they swam around us for at least an hour. I took lots of little video clips. In the afternoon our fun started, we had lots of squalls, not much wind, the max we saw was 16 knots, but the rain was very heavy. It came down in buckets. Both Dinis and myself got drenched, was quite refreshing after all the heat. The wind was all over the place during the squalls, so after trying to keep the boat sailing during the squalls we gave up and furled the genoa and drop the main, as we had to constantly jibe. The squalls left us with confused seas and very light winds. We have about 1 knot current with us which is great. It was a rolly night.

On route to Galapagos - Day 2

Posted 18 March 2011

The second day was uneventful except that we still have our hitch hiker on board. It is amazing that the bird sits on the pulpit all this time, without moving.
During the day it is very hot inside, maximum temperature reached was 35 degrees Celsius. Luckily we run the water maker at least every other day, as nothing cools you down like a cold, or rather warmish shower. The temperature of the ocean water is 27 degrees Celsius and the colour is a beautiful turquoise.

Finally last night we started the engine and motor sail. The wind dropped below 5 knots and at times we were not moving at all. We had a very clear evening and the nearly full moon lights the ocean so that everything is quite visible. We saw no traffic.

Good news for all the people that send a QSL card to our address in Canada. We have received an email from our son Morgan with all the call signs and names, so Dinis will send his QSL card to all after we cleared into Galapagos. Please also note that we gave up on forwarding our mail, as the process took too long and was too complicated. Since we started our trip in July 2010, we did not manage to get our mail forwarded.

On route to Galapagos - Day 1

Posted 17 March 2011

At 07:30 am this morning were our first 24 hours. We did 116 nm on a very pleasant trip. The wind is from SW between 7 to 10 with the occasional 12 knots. Although we are on the beat the sailing is great, not much heel. We are able to sail a straight course to Galapagos 215 degrees true with our speed over ground 4 to 5 knots. We have another 570 nm to go and if the wind continue like this we should arrive in 6 days time. We saw quite a bit of commercial traffic during the night.

I managed to bake bread and roast a whole bunch of garlic at the same time. This morning on Dinis watch he saw that we have a juvenile booby bird catching a ride with us. Not sure how long the bird will stay. We put some water, but the bird did not respond to the water as yet. We caught 3 fishes, but no keepers. The first fish managed to get away, the second was a skipjack, which we released back and the last fish was eaten and we only pull out the head.

We are quite tired as is normal for the first couple of days.